Each new aroma of perfumer Isabelle Doyen is being expected with excitement. Her long and fruitful work with romantic brand Annick Goutal has created practically faultless portfolio.
In October, 2006 a new fine child of the Doyen - a trio of aromas for just created euro brand LesNez: Let Me Play the Lion, L’Antimatiere, The Unicorn Spell- has been introduced. Each aroma has the literary name, casting memoirs on William Shakespeare and European Middle Ages legends. Isabelle has devoted romantic lines to each of aromas - instead of usual transfer of making notes.
If first two are difficult enough for transferring words - they should to be tried, instead of being recommended, The Unicorn Spell can be easily described. The Unicorn Spell is an attempt to transfer a medieval legend.
Aroma starts with the sharp, fresh and juicy chord similar to a smell of green pepper, cut for salad, combining both juiciness Bulgarian, and an acuteness of Chile. Being gradually softened, the greens shade the cold earthy party of wood. Everything is deeper in a wood, everything is frozen - and here a green chord of violet leaves with the earthy iris, reminding Grey Flannel from Geoffrey Beene, but much less perfumery, is represented. The author as if specially leaves creating with pleasant impressions, that is so characteristic for Goutal.
Smell of a detergent powder? The frozen wood greens or the pulled out tops of vegetables beaten by a frost? As opposed to romanticism from Goutal the image of cold death of plants is more likely seen. It is the smell of sterile dead violets, pepper and an iris on the ground covered by hoarfrost; aroma of Snow Queen or its powder, aroma of hoarfrost on fresh greens.
Iris warms not so fast, but it is exactly Iris and the sweetish powder-flower note that give hope for the next spring, for the remote violence of colors. It sounds only in the farthest loop, weak hope, almost imperceptible on a background of own skin aroma. It, probably, means occurrence of the Unicorn.
All three aromas are surprisingly modern, transparent and - the most important - are unusual. They proof, but they can’t be easily noticed in half an hour. These are the aromas-spies, aromas-scouts. They are her and they are not present at the same time. They are STRANGE.
They don’t smell of human feelings and memoirs, bright colors of the childhood or taste of familiar fruits. They do not give a support, leaving people in perplexity. Put you on the place of the five-year-old girl trying to understand the quantum physics in terms of university - similar misunderstanding will be at everyone, trying to feel LesNez aromas.